ZitatOriginal von patrick_S
ok, if these gains are corrcet, then it must come from running leaner due to a higher air flow than with the OEM-intake
because the stock ECU setting is very "rich"
i've installed a wideband lambda in my header and a A/F gauge
so i could easy check if the car runs leaner with installed puffo while driving with several speeds
Just do it 
if Gramingo has one Puffo left for me i will 
by looking on the dyno plots there' something strange regarding the wheel power and loss power (potenza persa):
the potenza persa range reaches from 45.1 to 67.9 BHP
a difference of 23 BHP in power loss between the same cars
all cars have nearly the same gear- and transmission loss
so the loss power measurement can't be correct and so the Motor power also can't be correct because the Maha dyno says:
Motor power = Wheel power + loss power
this is one reason why i asked about the wheel power because this is really measureable
furthermore the dyno wheren't done all in the same gear
some in 4th some in 5th gear
Meanwhile i believe that this intake may produce gains by leaning-down
I noticed the same effekt after installing the 68mm Skunk throttle body - the A/F ratio was then at 13.5 @ full throttle
with the OEM throttle body A/F was 12.7
i only do not trust the result of this Maha-Dynos
particularly the results of wheel and loss power are very unsteady in my opinion
i'll test it on a Dynojet, this one only measures the wheel power, but this results have nearly no scattering
i think i will last until May to go to the dyno
Well regarding my previous post, I did not want to see the topsecret studies.
Basically what I "need" is more (colder) air at all speeds,, If the Puffo can guarantee that, then it's fine for me. The rest will be "my thing".
Honestly, I don't care on other car's numbers.. (nothing personal, I never trust any of those) 
Do you have IAT comparisons? with the stock-box my IAT gets crazy in summer, and I already got problems with it that last summer, including ignition retard (not cool)
ZitatAlles anzeigenOriginal von deibit
Well regarding my previous post, I did not want to see the topsecret studies.
Basically what I "need" is more (colder) air at all speeds,, If the Puffo can guarantee that, then it's fine for me. The rest will be "my thing".
Honestly, I don't care on other car's numbers.. (nothing personal, I never trust any of those)
Do you have IAT comparisons? with the stock-box my IAT gets crazy in summer, and I already got problems with it that last summer, including ignition retard (not cool)
Ok,
this is something i can answer!
If you have a temperature problem i don' t think i found the solution,
becaue the air inside the intake is colder because it comes from outside the engine square,
but it's still at external temperature,
so, best i can do as results is comparable with an Airduct,
maybe just 1 or 2 degrees colder because i don't have a hose withc get hot near the radiator,
but i have to say i don't trust my "deltas" enought to say "buy Puffo",
the best i can do is to give you one to try,
if it will fit your problem you will pay for it,
if not you will send it back.
ZitatAlles anzeigenOriginal von deibit
Well regarding my previous post, I did not want to see the topsecret studies.
Basically what I "need" is more (colder) air at all speeds,, If the Puffo can guarantee that, then it's fine for me. The rest will be "my thing".
Honestly, I don't care on other car's numbers.. (nothing personal, I never trust any of those)
Do you have IAT comparisons? with the stock-box my IAT gets crazy in summer, and I already got problems with it that last summer, including ignition retard (not cool)
I don't think that the Puffo will decrease your IAT values.
The IAT sensor is affected by ambient heat of the intake manifold.
IMHO this is the reason why the ECU retards ignition at warm temperatures.
To ensure that the IAT puts out the correct temperature why don't you try to move the IAT from the intake manifold to another place where its not affected by ambient heat.
Sorry for OT
ZitatOriginal von sculdheizo
The IAT sensor is affected by ambient heat of the intake manifold.
IMHO this is the reason why the ECU retards ignition at warm temperatures.
To ensure that the IAT puts out the correct temperature why don't you try to move the IAT from the intake manifold to another place where its not affected by ambient heat.
i can't imagine that the position of the IAT sensor should be a fail made by Honda
i think the ambient temperature around the sensor is calculated in the ECU
if you put the sensor on another place, ECU reads maybe completely different values has to respone corresponding to that
not sure if the OEM ECU can manage this 
ZitatOriginal von patrick_S
i can't imagine that the position of the IAT sensor should be a fail made by Honda
Just compare your IAT values via OBD before and after relocating the sensor and you'll see, that the stock position of the sensor is a constructive error.
Think about the Hondata gasket or think about why Hondata uses the Integra IAT for the Kpro in the S2K.
ZitatOriginal von patrick_S
i think the ambient temperature around the sensor is calculated in the ECU
What do you mean exactly ?
I don't think that the ECU recalculates values it gets from sensors.
That would make no sense.
You can also review s2ki. It's full of threads regarding the IAT-issue.
I had a long discussion with Bernd about this - its a pity that he isn't active in this board anymore.
i meant that the map on the ECU is set to this temp. values given by the sensor
but it's only a guess
if this is really a fail and honda knows this, didi the re-locate the sensor on the newer models?
Hi,
darf ich als Unwissender fragen was es mit dem IAT-Sensor auf sich hat.
Sorry für OT.
JJ
it seems that at the newer models the IAT is located in the intake tube, not on the intake manifold
but if you re-locate the IAT on an older model, you'll need a programmable ECU right?
if i already have a programmable ECU i don't need to re-locate, because the map can be optimized
is this correct?
Integra: IAT = Intake Air Temperature
The IAT sensor has changed from the first models, in my model year, the IAT sensor is located in the admision tube (close to the filter).
The main problem of the stock airbox is: first the location (above the radiator does not seem like the best optimal place) and second the way it absorbes and keeps the heat... in summer, after spirit driving the IAT raises MUCH above the ambient temperature (I don't have the logs here, but I remember something about >50degrees)
The air inside the astock airbox is MUCH hotter than ambient, if you touch the airbox it will be even painful 
A good intake should get air from a colder place (I am confident that your intake position is much better). A good intake should also keep the air inside the intake at around ambient temperatures.. your design will make the air flow much quicker (so it will not be heated as much as with the OEM design).. but I still think that black FRP is not the best for keeping the heat out.. (but thats something I could solve by using gold or silver thermal isolator)... carbon fiber is a better heat isolator btw 
(I know.. much more expensive)
I think it's not that complicated.
The early s2k's IATs read 15-20 °C to hot.
Put your IAT to another place (like Honda did in the later versions) and everything is fine.
Mine is now located on the left side of the OEM-airbox.
how did you do that?
what's now on the original place of the IAT?
ZitatOriginal von patrick_S
how did you do that?
what's now on the original place of the IAT?
Btw.. I also think that moving the IAT in a OEM (non programable) ECU is not always a good idea..
The main problem with the old IAT location is that when the car is *TOO* warm, the IAT will be too much out of range (the IAT temperatures in that position escalate too quick).
But with "normal temperatures", the ECU is tuned for that specific IAT location (for those average temperatures).. so, if you move it, then in most of the situations the ECU will be "out of tune"
(I don't know If you understand what I mean)